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An insider's guide for getting the best of what’s in store.

Treasure Hunt
Want to accent your wardrobe with cool, one-of-kind pieces? Welcome to Vintage Shopping 101.
By Jennifer Smith Tapp

You might think of your local thrift shop as a place to drop off that futon that you’ve finally outgrown. But nestled in the racks between those cast-off prom dresses and ghastly double-knits could be a slinky Studio 54–era Halston gown just waiting for a good home. If you know what to look for and have the patience to sort through the clutter, resale shops, estate sales, and even garage sales can be a gold mine for stylish—and often inexpensive—pieces that add unexpected appeal to your wardrobe.

Hunting and Gathering
Any place that sells previously owned clothing and accessories offers an opportunity to unearth a vintage treasure. In addition to thrift shops such as those run by Goodwill, the Salvation Army, and local churches, you can explore estate sales, online sellers, and even your friendly neighborhood garage sales. Estate sales can be an especially good option to score a deal, since the sellers (usually family members) may not realize that the Giorgio di Sant’Angelo dress on the hanger is worth much more than the $10 they’re asking for it.

For those who prefer to approach shopping with a laserlike focus, heading to a boutique that specializes in vintage couture may be the way to go. Thanks to the increased popularity of retro fashion, stores that carry previously loved clothing have popped up everywhere. Many specialize in certain types of items, like secondhand denim or concert T-shirts, but the ones that concentrate on vintage designer pieces are by far the most fun. Since these stores serve as archives of twentieth-century fashion history, it’s even possible to take home museum-quality pieces. But once the quality and the demand increases, so does the price. Vintage dealers know what they have, and they’re not going to part with it easily.

Retrofitting
Once you’ve decided to take the plunge into the deep end of the vintage-shopping pool, you’ll want to keep a few rules in mind to make sure you’re getting what you want—and what you’re paying for.

Focus on quality: According to Madeline Meyerowitz, owner of the popular St. Louis–based online vintage boutique Enokiworld.com, fabric and details are key indicators of quality. “When push comes to shove, fabric is the be all and end all when you’re buying vintage clothing,” she says. “Cashmere should feel as thick as a blanket, and buttons should weigh as much as golf balls on substantial coats.” Also pay careful attention to the garment’s condition: Test the zippers, inspect the linings and seams, and look closely for damage or discoloration.

Do your homework: If the prices are low, it’s fine to concentrate primarily on basic quality, what you like, and what looks good on you. If there’s more at stake, Meyerowitz points out that “having a working knowledge of what is representative of certain designers” can help you to avoid buying a fake. So if you’re partial to Pucci, do a little research in advance so you’ll know if those wonderful prints were created by Emilio himself.

Size it up: At thrift shops, estate sales, and garage sales, it’s not enough to look at the size on the label; you need to try on items to determine their fit. “Women used to be a lot smaller of frame than we are now,” says Meyerowitz. “A vintage size 16 can be the equivalent of a modern 8, so labels are meaningless.” Deciphering the mysteries of vintage sizing is usually easier online, as long as your know your measurements. Most online sellers list not only the size on the label but also the bust, waist, hip, shoulder, and inseam measurements.

Seek out service: Not surprisingly, the amount of service you’ll receive on your vintage-shopping excursion generally reflects the amount listed on the price tag. Thrift shops, garage sales, and estate sales are usually self-service, but you may get lucky and stumble across a knowledgeable and helpful salesperson. According to April Ainsworth, owner of vintage-couture website Vintagevixen.com, you should expect higher level of service online, as you’re depending on the vendors to provide information about the garments before you buy. “We answer every email within 24 hours of receipt,” she says.

Learn about returns: Because estate and garage sales are usually one-time events, sales are generally final, but thrift stores have various policies, so it’s best to ask about returns before you buy. When it comes to online sales, both Ainsworth and Meyerowitz place a premium on return policies. In fact, Meyerowitz says, “If a shop doesn’t have a return policy, move on to the next one.” Along these lines, the price listed on the item may be the only price a seller will accept, or there might be room to haggle. At sales run by charitable organizations, haggling is generally considered in poor form, but at garage sales, it’s common practice.

Handle with care: Once you’ve found a perfect vintage piece to complement your wardrobe, you’ll want to keep it in good condition. Of course, the best method of cleaning depends on the fabric, but “hand-washing is generally less stressful than dry cleaning,” says Ainsworth, who recommends taking a cautious approach with items that have no cleaning instructions attached. “Test a seam with a dot of water, and then check it for movement of the dye and any puckering,” she suggests. “If it’s OK after it dries, a water-wash should be fine. If not, take it to a dry cleaner you trust.”

Photo credit: Ljupco Smokovski

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