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How to pull of any garment, accessory, or trend with aplomb.

 
 
Underneath It All
A sexy, jaw-dropping party dress needn’t incite indecent exposure. Find out how to remove the risk from the revelry.
By Jennifer Smith Tapp

With awards season right around the corner, celebrities will soon be strolling the red carpet in a parade of strapless, backless, and semisheer gowns. Although the occasional not-so-accidental transgression is to be expected—a socialite’s exposed breast or pop star’s visible thong—most of the stars will want to maintain a certain modicum of modesty. The rest of us, of course, won’t be posing for paparazzi, but at some point, we'll all have to dress for a formal event where the everyday bra-and-panty tandem simply won’t do. Thankfully, with the help of today’s innovative undergarments, an unforgettable entrance doesn’t have to incur an FCC fine.

Solid Foundations
According to Danny Koch of New York City’s legendary Townshop, many women will spend hundreds of dollars on a gown, then balk at the thought of shelling out $50 on what lies beneath—a shortsighted perspective, to be sure. The grandson of the late undergarment maven Selma Koch, whose specially trained fitters can allegedly decipher a woman’s bra size beneath a fur coat, he says that a properly fitted bra is the first underpinning for any special-occasion dress: “You really do get what you pay for, and support is the key” (not to mention your breasts will thank you ten years from now). What’s more, “Even with proper hand washing, the average life cycle of a bra is only about three months if worn on a regular basis.” As such, you can't depend on the bra that saw you through last year’s nonstop cocktail parties to provide the proper support for this year’s bridesmaid bashes.

For strapless dresses, Koch recommends bras with molded and padded cups, preferably in the bustier style. “The padded cups won’t make you appear larger, as is commonly believed,” he says. Instead, they’ll offer solid support without requiring you to tug and pull all night long. This style of bra also works for spaghetti-strap and one-shoulder gowns and is suitable for larger-breasted women. For additional support, Koch suggests going down a band size (so if you’re usually a 36, try a 34; just bear in mind that cup sizes vary depending on band size, so you’ll need to try on the bra in advance).

Unless you have the curves of an eight-year-old boy, you’ll need something to hold you up in front when wearing a backless gown. Fortunately, there are bustiers and bras whose specially designed backs dip down lower. Again, Koch recommends padded and molded cups for optimal support. An alternative that works well for backless dresses is Nu Bra’s self-adhesive cups, which are made of silicone and fasten together in the front. “The Nu Bra is my best-selling product for special-occasion dresses,” says Maria Ashby, owner of Underthings, a popular Chicago lingerie boutique. They’re ideal for creating cleavage and, according to Ashby, can be worn up to 100 times if cared for properly and can even be used as an enhancer underneath a standard bra. However, these cups are only recommended for those who wear a C cup or smaller. For women with a D or larger cup, the Feather Lite version of the Nu Bra offers a smoother, one-piece version.

Smooth Operators
Unless you’re a supermodel or an unusually dedicated gym rat, there are probably a few less-than-toned areas you’d prefer to keep under wraps. The good news is that a new generation of compression and contour-control garments works like a virtual nip-tuck, smoothing unwanted bulges with lighter-weight fabrics and more precise shaping than your grandmother’s girdle. Koch favors brands such as Wacoal, Body Wrap, and Spanx. Ashby also recommends Spanx, whose products she describes as “comfortable while offering firm control.” 

Another potential source of occasion-dressing angst is deciding what to wear on the bottom. When it comes to leg coverage, personal preference generally prevails. If you’re wearing a control garment, however, you’re better off opting for thigh-high hosiery. According to Koch, good-quality thigh-highs don’t fall down, and Wacoal and Wolford are two of the best labels. As far as slips are concerned, Koch cites the following rule of thumb: “If your dress is made of a see-through or a clingy fabric, invest in a good quality, anti-cling slip, such as one by Farr-West.” (Also keep in mind that a dress that looks anything but sheer at home can magically turn transparent depending on the lighting at your event).

What about points a little farther south? VPLs (visible panty lines) are unappealing enough during the day; you certainly don’t want them to ruin the look of your silk charmeuse gown on a special night. Luckily, there are a few welcome alternatives to going completely bare. Ashby recommends the Commando seamless thong, especially with clingy fabrics; the Hip-G, an intimate-apparel favorite; and On Gossamer, which also effectively disappears underneath your dress.

Photo credit: Katja Govorushchen
 

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