How to pull of any garment, accessory, or trend with aplomb.

Not too long ago, fashion was almost universally girlie—flirty tops, flouncy skirts, floral dresses, blinged-out bags. But this fall’s runways signaled a distinct shift toward a more mature, sophisticated vibe. Minimalism replaced excessive embellishment; bold, layered silhouettes supplanted more modest proportions; and some designers even looked to menswear for inspiration. But now that these styles have made their way from the catwalk into the stores, most of us are still wondering how exactly to wear them. After all, can a girl really look feminine in heavy sweaters, vests, trousers, and oversize coats? Luckily, according to the experts, the answer is yes: Although this fall’s fashions aren’t coquettish, they can be decidedly feminine and downright sexy—as long as you adhere to a few guidelines.

The first rule of thumb? Embrace your curves. “Targeting a curvaceous body feature adds a feminine dimension to this fall’s sober styles,” explains celebrity stylist Stacy Cox. Next, start thinking like a power woman. “Paired with tailored slacks or cigarette pants, military-style jackets and double-breasted coats can give women a psychological power boost that no dress ever could,” says Renu Dalal-Jain, owner of Flair Consulting in Philadelphia and Mumbai. “Plus, because this season’s styles have no unnecessary frills or fluff, the woman wears the clothes, as opposed to the clothes wearing the woman.” How’s that for embracing your inner goddess? To get a closer look at how to pull off each of this season’s trends, we grilled the fashion gurus for their secrets.

Waist Watchers
Wide belts are everywhere this fall, and for good reason: They transform any silhouette into a sultry hourglass—even this season’s voluminous tops, tunics, and sweaters. Fortunately, they’re available in countless materials, from patent leather and suede to haircalf and tweed, so finding styles that complement your clothing should be a breeze. For those with sexy waists, Dalal-Jain recommends contoured belts, which draw extra attention to the midriff. That said, finding a flattering width might require a little strategic thinking: “While taller women can pull off wider belts, they can make petite women look shorter through the torso,” Cox observes. For that reason, petite girls should pay special attention to scale and opt for medium or thinner takes on the trend.

Empire State
If you don’t want to emphasize your midriff, you can still master this season’s proportions with Empire-waisted styles. Since the seam sits just below the bust, they look flattering on everyone from waifish models to plus-size girls and maternity mamas. And although Empire waists have traditionally been most often associated with dresses and eveningwear, they’re now making their way onto babydoll tops and tunics. Best of all, even though they don’t create an hourglass figure, they do succeed in flaunting your feminine assets while minimizing extra pounds. “The Empire waist flattens everything out, and it’s always in style,” says Casey Sheridan, a plus-size activist.

Taking the Plunge
Waist cinching and Empire seams aren’t the only ways to feminize your wardrobe; a plunging neckline can be a great option, too. Having said that, unless you want to be known as “the girl who lets it all hang out,” you’ll need to modify the look for daytime. “Limit yourself to showing just a slight glimpse of skin,” advises Cox, who cites V-neck sweater dresses and cowl-neck sweaters as some of the season’s chicest styles: “Pair them with a fun belt, and you’ll look feminine, sexy, and well proportioned.” When the sun goes down, more daring divas can take a cue from Nelly Furtado, and wear a menswear-style blazer with only a vest underneath—a look that’s risqué but still keeps you covered.

Short and Sweet
If you loved what cropped pants did for your calves this summer, you’re in luck: Capris, gauchos, culottes, and even Bermuda shorts are making the transition to fall. To get the look, swap your sandals for ankle or knee-high boots, and wear them over tights or leggings. Another option is the pencil skirt, a versatile staple that enhances curves without defying the office dress code. Or, if you have great legs, invest in a miniskirt—another trend that pays homage to the ’80s. To keep the look sassy, as opposed to skanky, avoid sheer, patterned, or vibrantly hued hose, and instead, follow Eva Mendes’s lead: Pair your minis with dark, opaque leggings or tights and mid to low heels (not 6-inch stilettos).

Slim Pickings
Although layering was all the rage on the runways, in real life, one minor misstep can take the look from fashion-forward to frumpy. In general, the trend is more suitable for thinner women, but in all cases, it’s best to stick with lighter-weight fabrics and lean silhouettes to avoid excess bulk. For those of us who aren’t waifish, Dalal-Jain says the goal should be to achieve an overall balance, rather than adhere to a specific trend: “If you’re wearing a sexy skirt, pair it with a fitted shirt that covers everything, and if you’re wearing a top that shows cleavage, reach for tailored slacks, not a micro-mini.” In addition, Cox points to other, more figure-friendly layered options: “Wear a great tweed suit—the tailored slacks, fitted blazer, and vest—over a ruffled shirt with a high collar.” Even though it's a season of sobriety, romantic tops and 9 to 5–style bow tops are de rigueur again.

Curvalicious: Nicole Miller’s four-inch-wide Haircalf Waistbelt ($125; bloomingdales.com).

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