The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Foxy Brown
When it comes to hair color, brunette is the new blonde. Here, how to achieve your best deep-impact shade.
By Liz Funk

From Britney’s newly chocolate tresses to Ashlee Simpson’s caramel strands, celebrities are disproving the age-old maxim that blondes have more fun. And is it any wonder? As the most universally flattering and light-reflecting hair hue, by day, brown exudes power and confidence; by night, it’s sultry and even risqué (look no further than brunette bombshells like Eva Longoria and Angelina Jolie for proof of that theory). But why the sudden shift? “Celebrities seem bored with blonde,” observes Brian Fenner, a colorist at Carolyn’s Salon in Albany, New York. And, he explains, “real women are following their lead,” adding that many of his clients are now requesting coffee-colored coifs.

But what about the long-held belief that blonde makes women look prettier, sexier, even younger? “That isn’t necessarily true,” says Jet Rhys of San Diego’s Jet Rhys Salon. “Over time, lightening can make hair brittle and leave you looking washed out.” In fact, she argues that inverting the traditional color paradigm (using darker tones around the face) can often take years off a woman’s appearance. At the same time, going deep isn’t without its risks—just ask anyone who ended up with bluish Kelly Osbourne hair while trying to achieve a Rachel Bilson look. Here, the experts reveal how to get in touch with your dark side without suffering the same fate.

High-Pro Glow
When the objective is lightening up, a trip to the salon is almost a given. But with brunette, the process is generally less damaging, so the rules aren’t so cut and dry. Nevertheless, there are still some cases where you’ll need to enlist the help of a professional. “If you have bleached or highlighted hair, a colorist will need to use a filler to even out the color beforehand,” Fenner explains. “If they don’t, the bleach will grab whatever base is in the color, and your hair could end up striped, green, or flame red”—probably not the look you were going for. What’s more, if your dream shade is multitonal, requiring the intricate placement of various shades, you shouldn’t go it alone. That said, if you’re starting with your natural color, are looking to add vibrancy to a mousy shade, or just want to tweak your already-brown hue, it is possible to achieve professional-looking results at home.

Match Points
The trickiest part of the coloring equation? Selecting the right shade. “It’s a fine line between rich and goth,” says Rhys, adding that most women should “stick to medium browns for the most flattering results.” However, the color that’s best for you will depend on your skin tone and eye color, and generally, the darker you are, the darker you can go. As with all hair color, the depth of brunette shades are gauged by their “levels,” which, depending on the manufacturer, range from one (black) to six (light brown). Within each level, there are generally three tone options: cool (ash browns, pecans, beige browns, coffees, bluish blacks); warm (caramels, cinnamons, golden browns, mahoganies, espressos); and neutrals (chestnuts, walnuts, natural browns, chocolates, soft black). If your skin is pinkish with blueish veins, you should probably stick with cooler colors; if it has a yellow cast with greenish veins, you should generally opt for warmer hues; and if it’s somewhere in between, a neutral is usually the best option. But since one brand’s chestnut may be another’s auburn, it’s important to consult the key code to determine the tone. And never judge a kit based on the cover model or display swatches; the color shown on the side or back of the box is more accurate. Taking a trip to the wig shop and trying on a few shades can also be helpful, but if you’re still unsure, turn to the pros. “Good colorists are true artists,” says Fenner. “They know what they’re doing and what works best, and they can show what potential colors will look like against your skin.”

Dye Right
If you’re going to the salon, you can simply select your shade, kick back, relax, and gossip with your colorist about the future of Nick and Jessica’s separate careers. But if you’re going brunette yourself, now is crunch time. Keep in mind that at-home hair color falls into one of three categories: demi-permanent (lasts up to 8 eight shampoos), semi-permanent (lasts up to 25 shampoos), and permanent (lasts indefinitely). Assuming your hair isn’t already bleached or highlighted, demi and semi kits are generally considered to be safer options that will allow you to ease into your new color. In all cases, though, it’s best to conduct weekly deep-conditioning treatments until a few days before you dye. And 48 hours prior, be sure to do a patch test for allergies. If you’re not allergic, you can move on to the strand test, which will give you a preview of the end color. Since there are various factors that will determine the end result, including your starting color, hair type, and texture, the strand test will give you a more accurate gauge than the shade guide. If you don’t like the preview, you can simply restart your search. If you do like it, you’re ready to dye, which means starting with clean hair—no hairspray or product buildup—and “following the kit’s directions to the letter,” advises Fenner. Keep in mind that you can call the 800 number on the box or label anytime; companies like L’Oreal and Clairol are staffed with support experts to help answer your questions.

Save Your Skin
One underpublicized glitch of D.I.Y. dyeing? The effect it can have on your skin. Kate Page, a beauty consultant for Avenue You Boutique, emphasizes the importance of using the kit’s gloves to protect your hair, nails, and cuticles. To safeguard your face and neck, she recommends applying Vaseline along the hairline and behind your ears and neck, and wrapping your neck in a towel. If you do wind up getting dye on your skin, wipe it off immediately with a paper towel, and rinse the area with water. If you don’t notice the dye until after the deed is done—and your skin resembles a Dalmatian’s coat—wash the spots thoroughly with soap and water. And if that doesn’t work, there are a few other tricks at-home dyers swear by: rubbing the affected area with toothpaste, a good exfoliant, or cigarette ash (not the burning kind, of course).

Dye Another Day
If your brunette tresses are a success, you’ll probably spend days glued to the mirror contemplating your newfound fabulousness. If the color isn’t right, you’ll know that too. “You’ll look like you died and someone forgot to tell you,” Fenner says. “The wrong shade of brown is easy to spot because it will wash you right out.” If your strands are looking too gothic or red, run—don’t walk—to a salon for professional color correction (it’s widely believed that the sooner correction is attempted, the more successful it will be because the dye hasn’t settled completely into the cuticle yet). “To reverse the effects of going too dark, you’ll probably need to have your hair stripped,” Page says. “Although this can be damaging, it will give you a second chance.” But whatever you do, don’t try to fix the problem yourself or return to the same colorist who let you leave the salon looking that way. According to Page, either option will only make matters worse.

Keeping It Fresh
Luckily, dark tresses are easier to maintain than blonde locks or some other beauty trends, like hair extensions. But for best results, you’ll still need to invest some time and effort. Most women find that they need to touch up their roots every six to eight weeks, and between touch-ups, Fenner recommends that his clients use shampoos made especially for color-treated hair. “Some manufacturers make color-depositing shampoos, but they can be harsh on the hair, so I don’t recommend them,” he says. In addition, make sure to avoid the sun, chlorine, and salt water—all of which can compromise the vibrancy of your color. If you’re planning to spend a few more weekends at the beach, Page recommends using hair products with built-in UV filters. Other color-fading culprits? Washing too frequently (limit yourself to two or three times a week), using hair sprays (opt instead for silicone serums), and hot water (many colorists believe that washing with cold water makes hair color last longer).

Fine Tuning
Now that you’ve achieved your sultry shade, there’s an added bonus: You have an excuse to experiment with new makeup colors. Although some of your standby formulas may complement your rich tresses, you’ll probably need to make a few adjustments. In general, the peachy and muted shades that flatter blondes can make brunettes look washed out. But on the flipside, “as a brunette, you can get away with a deep lip, shimmery bronzer, and dark eye makeup, even black, as long as you don’t wear them all at the same time,” explains Page. What that means for you this fall? Given the season’s trend toward deeper, richer palettes, it’s never been a better time to go brunette.

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