beauty addict

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The latest trends, techniques, and insider secrets—revealed.

Going to Extremes
The new look for nails? Black, superrich, or barely there—with virtually no shades in between.
By Erin Roop

Back when you were in high school, black nail polish was reserved for the goth crowd—a dark, even dangerous beauty line that the glossy-magazine-reading crowd wouldn’t dare traverse. But secretly, most pink loyalists probably yearned to paint their tips with the dark, moody color. Well, now their time has officially come. Celebrities like Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton, Nicole Richie, and Kate Beckinsale have all been seen sporting noir nails, and chances are, they didn’t pick up their lacquers from a Halloween store either; many mainstream beauty brands are now launching their own colorless shades (Chanel’s limited-edition Black Satin is enjoying the same, if not more, buzz than the brand’s 1994 Vamp release).

Why the sudden change of heart? According to nail expert Carolyn Cianciotto of Carolyn New York, the somber colors seen on the fall runways are serving as the inspiration for this season’s nail shades. But what if the black polish trend isn’t for you? You’re in luck: There are still plenty of fall hues that will enable you to make a deep impact without channeling your inner Morticia Adams. Rich berries, wines, reds, and chocolates are all hugely popular, and there’s another side to the extreme equation—ultrapale, barely there shades that make tips look almost polish-free. Can’t decide which end of the spectrum is best for you? Well, that’s okay. Just sit back, slather on your most luxurious hand cream, and let our experts guide you toward your best fall look.

Color Field
Once you’re ready to take the fall-nail plunge, you’ll need to figure out which shades to splurge on. According to celebrity nail guru Deborah Lippmann, it’s all a matter of finding polishes whose undertones complement your own. “The most important thing you can do is to get to know your skin tone,” she says. A shortcut: Inspect the inside of your wrist in natural light. If your skin is pinkish with blueish veins, you’re cool. If your skin has a yellow cast with greenish veins, you’re warm. If you’re still unsure, Lippmann recommends heading to the nearest department store for an appointment with a beauty consultant. Once you’ve determined your tone, you’ll probably be surprised to learn that you can wear virtually any color. “Most people don't realize that everyone can wear red nail polish, for example,” Lippmann explains. “Again, it’s just a matter of choosing the right red for you.” In general, women whose coloring is warm should stick with shades that have yellow or orange undertones, while those with cool skin should opt for blue-based hues.

According to Cianciotto, along with tone, you should also take your skin’s shade into consideration. “This season’s rich burgundies, berries, and eggplants will probably look best on fair or dark skin; bright reds and chocolates are generally suitable for dark skin; and rusts, rich reds, and burnt oranges usually flatter medium or olive girls.” On the lighter side, similar rules apply: Pale yellow-based pinks, peaches, and neutrals are best for warm skin tones, while blue-based pinks, nudes, and vanillas are best for cooler gals. And what about noir nails? Like the little black dress (and supersheer, almost clear shades), anyone can wear the color in theory—as long as their nails are short (you don’t want to wear this look with two-inch-long talons) and well manicured (while versatile on the one hand, the trend also emphasizes every flaw). To this end, although nails are moving toward extremes, Lippmann points out that women don’t have to make one giant leap toward the light or dark sides. Instead, she advocates a gradual transition from summer brights to muted mauves and bronzes before proceeding to more extreme shades.

Tipping Points
Once you’ve selected your fall lacquers, it’s time to figure out how to get a stunning look that lasts beyond a few hand washes. Begin by remembering that every good manicure yields not only fabulous color but also great-looking hands—a formula that’s even more important as you make the transition to fall. “Remember, extreme polish will draw more attention to hands and nails,” Cianciotto says. As such, treat your hands to a rich, hydrating cream daily and exfoliation weekly, and use an oil to keep cuticles moisturized. When preparing to polish, “make sure your nails are clean and thoroughly dry,” says Lippmann. In fact, Minnesota manicurist Jessica Zastoupil recommends swiping nails with polish remover, pure acetone, or vinegar beforehand to remove the moisture and oils that can potentially repel polish.

To keep your trendy nail color from chipping and peeling, a good basecoat is essential. If you have creases in your nails, a ridge-filling formula can be especially helpful. An added basecoat boon? It will keep dark colors from staining your nails post-polish. When applying the color, Cianciotto offers another anti-chip tip: “Run the brush across the very tip of each nail so that you're almost painting the underside,” she says. “After two minutes, brush on a topcoat to finish the look.” Most experts advise their clients to steer clear of quick-dry topcoats and instead rely on standard formulas, which tend to be longer-lasting (if you want to speed up drying time, coat each nail with cuticle oil post-topcoat). To keep nails shiny, Lippmann recommends applying an additional topcoat every other day (again, swiping the brush across the tip of the nail each time), and to extend the life of your manicure, wear gloves when doing household chores. And what if you do get a chip? No worries: Just use a Q-tip soaked in polish remover to smooth the surface, paint over the area, and voilà—a surface so flawless that no one will ever know.

Photo credit: courtesy of Chanel

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